The Central Cemetery in Vienna

The Zentralfriedhof, or Central Cemetery, in Vienna is so fascinating that it stands out as one of the most famous tourist attractions in Austria. If you plan to visit sometime, aim for late spring or summer in order to be dazzled by the landscaping.

Before the cemetery was created, it was speculated to accommodate 4 million people. There are now over 3 million people buried in the cemetery which spans nearly 2 ½ million square meters. This makes it the second largest cemetery in Europe (Hamburg has the largest).

The cemetery which is called "central" is not located in the center of Vienna, but on the outskirts. This was a plan created by visionaries who saw that the population was going to grow and lots of room would be needed.They were right, but at that time there was no public transport and it took an hour to get there. Once the cemetery was established, the Viennese who lived along the route became agitated. Every week horse carriages accompanied by a procession of grieving loved ones, carried approximately 100 of the deceased to the new cemetery. That first winter, things became even more awkward as carriages bogged down in the snow. The Viennese are noted for their tendency to complain, but this would put anyone's nerves to the test.

The art-loving Viennese have even made grave-keeping an art and nowhere is this talent more visible than at the Zentralfriedhof. For those who can afford it, landscapers are paid to keep the graves and, according to your pocket book, you can get some pretty nifty deals. For example, if you're a musician, the plants on your grave can be arranged in the shape of musical notes. Thus, the macabre subject of death takes on a kind of whimsical quality. But the decorative styling of graves isn't the only thing interesting about this cemetery.

There are some remarkable monuments adorning many of the graves and not just the graves of the rich. One of my favorites is this large marble slab with an exact carving of a guys' sports car as well as himself and his wife. Who said you can't take it with you? And I couldn't help but be impressed by an elaborately lighted cherry wood crypt owned by a gypsy family.

Officially, the tally of gravestones is 330,000. Now even if you are mathematically challenged, you have to wonder how that jives with the over 3 million people buried here. On my first visit, I noticed that some of the family plots were less than a meter square. When I inquired about this, I was told that, to save space, family members (in turn) were buried on top of each other. If the last one buried has been there less than 10 years, they exhume it, package it, put it back and bury the latest member on top. I can't describe how this made me feel so I'll just leave you with that thought.

The Zentralfriedhof officially opened in 1874 and everyone is welcome. The largest areas are divided up between the Catholic, Protestant and Jewish faiths with several smaller sections for the others. Then there is the designated area for the artists, another for dignitaries, politicians and the military who have their own section as do the victims of the various wars. There's even a section for monuments to people who have donated their bodies to science. Then there's the sad but sweet baby cemetery. For me, though, the most interesting is the older Jewish section. This is because for decades there was no one to tend the graves. They'd all been killed or had to flee for their lives. Looking at those massive, leaning gravestones with trees growing up through them and the tangle of vines, gives me chills everytime I go there. Many graves still show the destruction of the Nazi “Kristalnacht” of 1938 although the local Jewish population have done what they could to restore it.

The most famous of the famous are buried in this cemetery and if you want to know where everyone is you can purchase a guide-book. These are provided at the main gate. You'll never get to see them all in one day, but the illustrated book makes for a nice keepsake.

When visiting the graves of Beethoven, Schubert, Strauss, Kurt Waldheim, Curd Jurgens, etc. a feeling of awe came over me. I began to understand that ancient admiration the Viennese have for "die nobele Leute" (the higher echelon of society), those who lived lavishly, loved and then left. It's not known where Mozart's remains ended up as he died in poverty and was buried in a common grave. However, a large monument was erected in his memory and can be seen here.

If you ever decide to take a vacation in Europe, you won't be disappointed if you come to Vienna. And if you do, you must come and visit the Zentralfriedhof, one of Vienna's most impressive "museums". It's something you don't want to miss and I guarantee it will be a haunting experience.